Raul Ortega began selling tacos de cabeza in his hometown of San Juan de Los Lagos in Jalisco, Mexico. He pivoted to tacos dorados de camaron (crispy fried…

Raul Ortega began selling tacos de cabeza in his hometown of San Juan de Los Lagos in Jalisco, Mexico. He pivoted to tacos dorados de camaron (crispy fried shrimp tacos) at Mariscos Jalisco, a food truck that’s become a Boyle Heights institution and expanded. As good as the tacos are, they aren’t his main focus.

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